Roanoke Island is the daytrip capital of the Outer Banks. That’s
because the island is home to four of the Outer Banks’
most popular attractions, and not a summer day goes by when
there isn’t some kind of special event going on here.
Everybody who vacations on the Outer Banks
should make it a point to come to Roanoke Island at least once
during their visit. But be forewarned; one visit is not enough
-- you just can’t see it all it one day. The island is
overflowing with things to see and do. Be sure to see the Roanoke
Island Tabloid in this newspaper for specific details about
Roanoke Island’s shops, restaurants, accommodations, attractions
and recreation.
Roanoke Island is floating in the sound between
the Outer Banks and the mainland and is accessible by three
bridges. Right across the Roanoke Sound from lower Nags Head,
the island is small, only about 12 miles long and 3 miles wide.
The island’s watery views and lush vegetation make it
one of the most beautiful places on the Outer Banks.
Roanoke Island has three distinct areas –
lively Manteo, the Dare County seat and the only incorporated
town on the island; Wanchese, a quiet fishing community; and
the verdant “North End,” home to the Fort Raleigh
National Historic Site, The Elizabethan Gardens, The Lost
Colony and the North Carolina Aquarium, along with the
airport and residential housing.
Manteo is a busy little town. Its waterfront/downtown
area is an attraction in itself, with shops, art galleries,
eateries, a lighthouse, a waterfront boardwalk and boats sitting
in the harbor of Shallowbag Bay. The historic district of Manteo,
which fans out from the waterfront, is full of restored homes
and inns that make for great sightseeing or overnight stays.
The historic district and waterfront area are perfect for exploring
on foot or by bicycle.
The main corridor of Manteo is U.S. Highway
64. This road is lined with more shops, galleries, restaurants,
service businesses and places to stay. A bicycle/multi-use path
runs parallel to Highway 64 from the Nags Head Causeway to the
North End. If you have a bicycle handy, we highly recommend
using this path to explore Roanoke Island. Find somewhere to
park the car (downtown or at Roanoke Island Festival Park are
good places), then pedal away. The path leads all the way out
to the attractions of Fort Raleigh and ends at a beautiful soundfront
park.
The North End of Roanoke Island is incredibly
scenic, with linear plantings of live oaks and crepe myrtles
and a lush green setting you won’t find anywhere else
on the Outer Banks. Since the new Virginia Dare Bridge has diverted
vacation traffic to more of the middle of Roanoke Island, you’ll
find the North End to be a very peaceful place.
Wanchese does not have much for tourists.
It’s really the only area of the Outer Banks that does
not revolve around tourism. This is a small village where people
live and work, in the fishing and boat-building industries mainly.
But it’s a nice place to take a slow drive and see what
an old-fashioned island community is like. Check out the Wanchese
Seafood Industrial Park to see the thriving boat-building and
boat service industry operations; walk the docks at the marinas
and look at the boats, many of which were locally built; buy
some fresh seafood at a seafood market; then have lunch at Thicket
Lump Marina or dinner at Queen Anne’s Revenge. Charter
fishing trips are available out of two marinas in Wanchese,
so that might be another reason to come back.
History
You cannot appreciate Roanoke Island and
its attractions unless you know some of the island’s history.
Long before Jamestown and Plymouth were settled, Roanoke Island
played host to the first English-speaking colonists in the New
World. Sponsored by Sir Walter Raleigh, English colonists made
two attempts to settle on Roanoke Island and claim the land
for Queen Elizabeth, but the colonies failed. Even so, the first
English-speaking child born in the New World, Virginia Dare,
began life on Roanoke Island.
In 1585, an English fort and settlement with
more than 100 men was established on the north end of the island.
That same year, two Native Americans from the island, chiefs
Manteo and Wanchese, visited England with some of the Englishmen.
(Now you know where the island’s communities got their
unusual names.) The English hoped this would help them establish
good relationships with the natives, but the relationships were
later strained. This first colony was eventually abandoned due
to weather, lack of supplies and poor relations with the natives.
In 1587, another party of more than a hundred
English colonists, including women and children, reached Roanoke
Island in July. A month later, on August 18, Virginia Dare was
born to Eleanor and Ananias Dare. This is the colony that disappeared
and would become known as “the lost colony.” The
colony’s governor and baby Virginia’s grandfather,
John White, who had been sent back to England to get supplies
in August of 1587, was delayed for three years. When he came
back to Roanoke Island in 1590, there was no sign of the colony
he left behind, only the words CRO and CROATAN carved into a
tree. No one knows what happened to these people, and this is
the subject of the play The Lost Colony, which has
been running on Roanoke Island for more than 60 years. You’ll
notice that many of the street names and place names on the
island stem from this history.
Roanoke Island also has a fascinating Civil
War history. The island was the location of an early battle
and was controlled by the Union Army for the duration of the
war. Roanoke Island housed a Freedmen’s Colony, where
escaped slaves found a safe haven for several years.
Attractions
Many of Roanoke Island’s attractions
center around the early colonization attempts and the Elizabethan
era in which they occurred. The Fort Raleigh National
Historic Site commemorates the first English settlement
attempts in the New World and incorporates part of the land
where the English tried to settle. The museum also tells the
story of other historic events that happened on Roanoke Island
– Civil War history, the Freedmen’s Colony and Reginald
Fessenden’s experiments with radio. The park is also home
to Waterside Theatre and the outdoor symphonic drama The
Lost Colony. The drama, written by Paul Green,
has been running on Roanoke Island since 1937. It tells the
story of Queen Elizabeth and Sir Walter Raleigh’s desire
to establish a colony in the New World as well as the stories
of the colonists who went seeking a new life and the Native
Americans who were adversely affected by their arrival. The
play leaves its audiences pondering the mystery of what happened.
Also on the site of Fort Raleigh is The Elizabethan
Gardens, an accurately reproduced and quite lovely
English garden that is a living memorial to American’s
first English colonists.
Another site that honors the birthplace of
English-speaking America is Roanoke Island Festival
Park, which is located just across from the Manteo
waterfront on its own small island. This park features a representative
16th-century sailing ship; a Settlement Site with re-enactors;
a film told from the perspective of the natives on Roanoke Island;
an Adventure Museum with interactive exhibits exploring the
history of the island; plus arts exhibits and events. A waterfront
boardwalk encircles part of the island and provides a shady
and pretty nature walk.
Other attractions on Roanoke Island include
the very popular North Carolina Aquarium on
Roanoke Island, which features amazing fish tanks, animal exhibits
and stand-out programs; the North Carolina Maritime
Museum, which features a boat-building shop and museum
along with sailing and boating-related classes; and Roanoke
Marshes Light, a reproduction lighthouse on the Manteo
waterfront.
Other Things to Do
One of the best things to do in Manteo is
to explore the waterfront and historic area. Park the car and
walk around; the town is quite pedestrian friendly. You can
explore the maritime museum and lighthouse, pop in and out of
antiques shops, art galleries, boutiques and a legendary bookstore;
have lunch or dinner; sip a latte or eat ice cream; look at
boats in the harbor; walk over the bridge to Festival Park;
or walk around town and look at the homes. Better yet, pick
up a copy of the Manteo Walking Tour, published by
One Boat Guides. This 1.8-mile tour takes you through the streets
of Manteo past 45 sites of historic interest or local significance.
Along the way you’ll read stories and see old photographs
of the way Manteo was in days gone by.
But that’s not all there is to do on
Roanoke Island. There are dolphin tours, sailing tours, sightseeing
tours, kayaking tours and even fishing and shrimping tours that
leave from the waterfront docks in the summer. More serious
anglers may want to book an inshore or offshore charter boat
from Pirate’s Cove or Broad Creek marinas. There’s
also a fishing head boat at Pirate’s Cove. You may want
to take a course at the North Carolina Maritime Museum. You
can enroll the kids in a sailing camp, take a course in knot-tying
or even build a boat in a day!
Finally, Roanoke Island offers numerous special
events, festivals, programs, performing arts, summer camps,
children’s programs and more all summer long. See “Special
Events” below.
The Roanoke Island Secret
Here’s a little tip: In the summer
months when every restaurant on the beach has a wait list every
night, it’s easy to breeze right in to a Roanoke Island
restaurant. For some reason, the beach visitors don’t
often think to make a special trip to Roanoke Island for dinner,
but they should! It’s only 5 or 10 minutes from Nags Head,
and there’s not as much of a frantic dinner rush over
here. For an especially quiet dinner on Roanoke Island, try
to eat a little later, about 7:30 or 8. By then everyone who
is trying to make it to The Lost Colony, the North
Carolina School of the Arts’ Summer Performance Festival
or The Pioneer Theater will have cleared out and you can have
your dinner in peace.
Staying Over
The best way to really get to know Manteo
is to stay the night. The town is perfectly quiet and even more
special at night and in the early morning, and that’s
a side of the town day-trippers don’t get to see. Manteo
has two waterfront inns plus a couple of bed and breakfast inns
and guesthouses that provide the ultimate accommodations. There
are also two nice bed and breakfast inns in Wanchese. And here’s
another tip: Roanoke Island has a few hotels on the main highway
that offer less expensive rates than the beach hotels. And remember,
this island is only about 10 minutes from the beach.
Roanoke Island’s Special Events
Listed below are just a few of Roanoke Island’s
special summer events. See the Events Calendar and the “What’s
a Kid Supposed to Do” article elsewhere in this newspaper
for more events and programs.
First Friday on Roanoke
Island
Every First Friday of the month from 6 to 8 p.m., the Manteo
Waterfront area comes alive with live music, shopping and dining
specials and a festival atmosphere.
The Lost Colony Outdoor
Symphonic Drama
An Outer Banks must-do since 1937, The Lost Colony
tells the dramatic story of America's earliest beginnings more
than 400 years ago. The drama runs from June 2 through August
18, Monday through Saturday at 8:30 p.m. Backstage Tours are
offered nightly at 6:30 pm. It’s held at Waterside Theatre
at Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. For reservations call
(252) 473-3414.
The Lost Colony Children's
Theater Production of Cinderella
Performers from The Lost Colony company bring to life
a timeless story that all children will enjoy. It’s held
June 30 through August 18, Wednesdays and Fridays at 9:30 a.m.
at Waterside Theatre. Cost is $3 per person. For information
call (252) 473-3414.
North Carolina School
of the Arts’ Summer Performance Festival
Bring a picnic and enjoy music, drama, dance and movies on the
lawn in the beautiful Outdoor Pavilion at Roanoke Island Festival
Park. This festival is held June 27 through August 5, Tuesday
through Saturday at 8:30 p.m. The festival also features Afternoon
Classics, held Tuesday through Friday at 2 p.m. in the Art Gallery,
featuring mainly music but occasionally drama sketches or dance.
The performances are free, but a $5 donation is requested. For
information call (252) 475-1500.
Summer Children’s
Performance Series
Roanoke Island Festival Park features special shows from national
children’s performers from June 27 through August 4, Tuesday
through Friday at 10:30 a.m., with some additional afternoon
performances. It’s free to Friends of Elizabeth II and
general admission holders and $5 for all others. Come early;
seating is limited! Call (252) 475-1500 for information.
Bloody Mary and The Virgin
Queen
Enjoy this humorous musical farce based on the relationship
between Queen Elizabeth I and her half-sister, Mary Tudor, who
loathed one another and yet are buried in the same tomb in Westminster
Abbey. The production takes place in the tomb, in the present
day. Performances are held at Roanoke Island Festival Park May
17 to June 21, Wednesdays at 3 p.m. It’s free! Call (252)
475-1500.
Elizabeth R
This one-woman show about Queen Elizabeth I, starring Miss Barbara
Hird, runs on Tuesdays at 2:30 p.m. from June 6 to August 15
at the Elizabethan Gardens Meeting Hall Theatre (indoors). The
$10 admission includes a tour of the gardens. Call (252) 473-3234.
Tea with the Queen
Meet Queen Elizabeth I and her royal court in The Elizabethan
Gardens while enjoying sumptuous desserts and refreshing iced
tea. Admission to the gardens and a backstage tour of Waterside
Theatre are included. Dates are June 15, July 13 and August
10 from 3 to 5 p.m. Reservations are required, so call (252)
473-3414.